Zoe Dress Sew-Along!

Thanks for joining in our Zoe Dress Sew-Along. In this post I will go though step by step with how to construct the Zoe Dress.

Your Pack will have included:

• The pattern
• 1m of Fabric
• 1 spool of gutermann thread
• 3mt of bias binding
• 1 invisible zipper

Other things you will need are:

• A sewing machine
• Scissors
• Pins
• Measuring tape
• Chalk or erasable fabric marker
• A loop turner (not necessary but helpful!)

Now that you have everything you need we can get started. The estimated sewing time is around 2-3hrs, but feel free to take your time based on your sewing level. If you have any questions shoot us a DM on instagram or leave a comment below!

Cutting Out:

On the back of your pattern packet there will be a size chart, use this to select your size. If you are between sizes we suggest doing the size up – it’s always easier to take something in than to let it out.

You may wish to trace your pattern if you think you might need a different size in the future. Otherwise cut out along your size lines on the pattern.

Use the pattern instructions as a guide for placing the pieces. This fabric doesn’t have nap or a obvious directional design so you can top and tail your pieces.

Fold the fabric in half with selvages together – the selvage is the uncut edge of the fabric.

Place the front along the fold and the back in the remaining fabric. Cut out – you will have one front and two back pieces. Mark the notches of the dart and also the drill hole.

Step 1 Darts:

Fold the darts in half matching notches, stitch from notch up to drill hole, for the last 1cm before drill hole stitch right along the edge just catching the fabric, this will create a smoother look for the darts.

Step 2 Side Seams:

Make sure darts are pressed toward the hem before sewing the side seams. Join front and back with right sides together. I’ve overlocked my edges, however feel free to use a zig-zag stitch or your preferred way to finish edges. After joining side seams I also over locked the back edge and the hem.

Step 3 Zipper & Back Seam:

Before inserting the zipper consider how we are going to finish the neckline. There is enough bias to finish the edge with a bias-facing, however if you prefer you can simply overlock/zig-zag the edges and turn in 1cm. If using bias place the zipper 0.5cm from the top edge, if folding over the edge place the zipper 1cm from the top edge.

Insert the invisible zipper by sewing right along beside the zipper teeth, this is the best way to make it invisible. You need to insert the zipper while it is open for the cleanest finish. Your machine likely came with a zipper foot to help stitch close the teeth, you can also help by rolling the teeth over slightly, making it easier for the needle to fall right into the edge beside the teeth. Place the zipper with right sides together with the back of the fabric and the top of the zipper teeth (not tape) either 1cm or 0.5cm from the top edge.

Once the zipper is in we can finish the rest of the back seam. Stitch from the bottom of the zipper to the hem with right sides together. I suggest starting 1 or 2 stitch’s away from the zipper for a cleaner finish and to use either your zipper foot or a skinny machine foot – depending on what your machine has, in order to get close to the zipper.

Step 4 Straps & Neckline:

Create straps by first trying on the dress and measuring strap length. I am a size small and cut my straps at 26cm, don’t forget to add seam allowance to your straps – 1cm for bias facing finish or 2cm for fold over finish. Cut your bias to size and fold in half right sides together, fold out the pre-pressed crease and stitch along this crease. Use a loop turner to turn right sides out. If you don’t have a loop turner you can fold the bias wrong sides together and stitch along the edge, this will have visible stitching but still create a neat finish. If you prefer wider straps you could also cut a rectangle from any left over fabric and create them in a similar way.

If folding in the neckline do so now by folding in 1cm and stitching down, then attach the straps. If adding bias to the neck line place the straps 0.5cm in from the arm hole and along the front and back edge of the neck line. Attach bias to neckline and arm hole by folding out one of the folded in edges of bias and placing along the edge of the garment with right sides together. Stitch in the fold of the bias. You will need to pivot at the corners next to the straps. Leave about 1cm free over the zipper.

Clip into the curves and corners and press the bias to the inside of the garment. Fold the corners over neatly to create a 45 degree crease. Also trim the excess zipper tape and fold the bias over the zipper before folding inside the garment, this will create a smoother look. Stitch down bias inside the garment.

Step 5 Hem & Tie:

Turn up hem in side garment 1cm and stitch down. Now the dress is done except for the tie. The tie is optional, it’s made using the remaining bias with the same method as making the straps.

If you have any questions, comments or feedback leave a comment down below.
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