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Mia Pant Sew-Along!

Thanks for joining in our Mia Pant Sew-Along. In this post I will go though step by step with how to construct the Mia Pant.

Your Pack will have included:

  • The pattern
  • 1.5m of Fabric
  • 1 spool of Gutermann Cotton
  • 1mt of 25mm Elastic
  • 1mt of 12mm Bias

Other things you will need are:

Now that you have everything you need we can get started. The estimated sewing time is around 3-4hrs, but feel free to take your time based on your sewing level. If you have any questions shoot us a DM on instagram or leave a comment below!

Cutting Out:

On the back of your pattern packet their will be a size chart, use this to select you size. If you are between sizes we suggest doing the size up – it’s always easier to take something in than to let it out. Plus this pattern isn’t a fitted style so the size difference wont effect the fit too much.
You may wish to trace your pattern if you think you might need a different size in the future. Otherwise cut out along your size lines on the pattern.

Now that you have your pattern pieces cut, lay your fabric out and fold it in half selvage to selvage. The selvage is the non-cut edge of the fabric. You will need one-pair of each of the pieces, this means you will have two mirror pieces for each piece. By laying the fabric folded in half you can cut both pieces at the same time.
Use the layout provided in the instructions as a guide for placement. This fabric does not have a nap or one-way design so we can cut the pants top and tail. Make sure the grain-line (line with arrows) of the pattern is parallel to the selvage of the fabric, this is important for how the fabric drapes.

Use a generous amount of pins as this fabric can slip a little bit and cut around each piece. When you are done you will have 1 pair of fronts, 1 pair of backs, 1 pair of pockets, 1 pair of waistband pieces and 1 pair of tie pieces. Don’t forget to notch the pocket piece where marked by cutting in 5mm.

Step 1-2: Pockets

Before we start the first step check the tension on your machine and you have the correct needle, I suggest using a size 70 needle. Once you are happy with how the machine is sewing with this fabric start on the next step. For all the steps I will be showing the seams overlocked – If you do not have an overlocker do not worry, you can use a zig-zag stitch which most modern machines should have or even pinking shears. These finishes are not to secure the seams, they just prevent fraying.

For the pockets we are first going to finish the opening of the pocket and the belt loop. We will do this using the bias binding. Place the binding on top of the pocket with right sides together. Cut the bias to the length of the curved edge and also a piece the length of the top of pocket to notch. Fold bias open and stitch down the crease in the bias – about 5mm from the edge.

Once the bias is sewn in clip into the curve and also into the notch, up to the stitched but not into the stitches. This allows it to be turned in easier.

Now use an iron on a low synthetic setting. It is worth testing a scrap piece of the fabric first to make sure the iron setting won’t harm the fabric.

Turn the bias in so that it is on the wrong side of the garment. This will encase the raw edge and make a neat finish for the pocket opening and belt loop opening. For future reference you can simply overlock or zig-zag the edge, turn it in and stitch it down but it is not as neat a finish.

Now that the bias is pressed to the inside of the pocket we will stitch this edge down by stitching along the edge of the bias.
In the picture below you can see what the inside and outside of the pocket will look like. I’ve also finished the remaining edges of the pocket (apart from side and top) with an overlocker, you can use a zig-zag stitch. Fold these edges in approx 0.8cm and press.

To add the pockets to the front of the pant we will align them with the outer leg seam. The top of the pocket will sit over the top of the pant waist, this is for when we attach the waistband and utilize the top of the pocket as beltloops. Place the top of the pocket so the notch sits 1cm in from the edge.


With the edges folded in stitch around the edge of the pocket, securing it to the front of the pant. Stitch only up to 1cm away from the top edge. I have highlighted in yellow where we are stitching.

This will leave the top long part of the pocket free, fold it down and pin it to secure it out of the way. We will finish this off as a belt loop later on in the process.

The pockets are one of the more complex parts of this process, now they are done we will move on constructing the shape of the pant.


Step 3-4: Basic Pant Construction

Place the front and back with right sides together, using 1cm seam allowance stitch down the inseam and the outer leg seam. I’ve highlighted those seams in the photo above. Overlock or zig-zag to finish these edges.
I’ve also taken this chance to finish the hem edge and the crotch edge with the overlocker – this will prevent fraying. I choose to overlock the crotch seam before joining them as the seam can then be pressed open which creates a flatter look against the body.

The next step is to join the crotch seam. This is again a 1cm seam and sewn with right sides together.
The best way to do this is to turn one leg right side out and place it inside the other leg. Match the inseam and use a pin to secure. I’ve highlighted in the picture below the seam we are sewing.

Pull the inside pant leg out and it will look like the image on the left in the photo below, turn the pant right side out and it should look like the image on the right.

Step 5-8: Waistband

Now that we’ve got the bulk of the pant done it’s on to the waistband. The waistband consists of 4 pieces, two for the main body and two for the ties. We will start with the ties.

The ties need to be folded in half along the long edge with right sides together. Stitch along the long edge, pivot and then stitch up just one short edge with 1cm seam allowance. Below I’ve highlighted the seam.

Once the long and one short edge have been stitched down we need to turn the tie right side out.
Before doing this it is important to clip the corners as shown in the picture to the left. This will mean there is no bulk once turned out and a neater finish will be achieved.
Turn the tie right side out by slowly turning over the open edge and pulling out the inside edge. It takes a bit of patience but once you are over half way it gets much easier and you can even grab only the top open edge and give it a few good vigorous shakes and it should start to slip through to the right side.

Now have the ties right side out we can attach the two waistband pieces together. First I suggest pressing the ties flat, as this will lead to a neater look in the finished garment.  With the right side of the waistband to the right side of the tie, place the ties with the open end on the short end of the waist band 1cm up from the long edge. Make sure there is one tie to each short end and that they are 1cm up from the same long edge. Place the remaining waistband piece on top with right side down, sandwiching the tie in the seam. Stitch this seam with 1cm allowance.

On the left you can see the placement of the tie between the waistband pieces and below is the waistband piece once complete and turned right side out.

Place the elastic around your waist so it fits comfortably. Cut about 2cm extra for joining together. Overlap the edges of elastic to create a loop and stitch to secure. I find it most secure to stitch a box then a cross in the box, as pictured below.

Now we are going to join the waistband to the main body with the elastic encased in the waistband. First thing to do is to make sure the belt loop part of the pocket is pinned out of the way. Then place the elastic inside the waistband folding the waistband in half over the elastic. The picture to the left shows placement of elastic in waistband. You will need to gather up the waistband at points as it will be larger than the elastic. If you are a beginner sewer it would be worth basting this with just a hand stitch to help hold the elastic inside the waistband casing.

Below you can see the waistband pinned to the body. The right side of the waistband is facing the right side of the pant. Match the side seams up and make sure the ties are facing the front and out of way of the top seam. Stitch around the top edge with a 1cm seam and overlock or zig-zag to finish the edge. You should only stitch through the waistband piece and body piece, not the elastic, ties or belt loops.

Your pants should be looking like the picture below. If you find one point of the waist is more gathered than another simply stretch the waist and redistribute the gathering so it is even. If you find the elastic twists in the waistband at all run a stitch through the elastic along the side of the waistband – this is optional.

Step 9-10: Belt Loops & Hem

Now we are nearly done! It’s a perfect time to try on your pants and make sure you are happy with how the elastic is sitting and also the length. The pants are designed to be 3/4 length but can be cut into shorts or knee length if desired. You could even add to the length for you next pair!

To finish the belt loops un-pin them from the front and fold them over the waistband. Tuck in the raw edge for a neat finish and attach to the waist seam allowance – do not sew further in than the seam allowance.

Loop the ties through the newly finished belt loops, as shown in the picture to the left.

For the final step turn up the hem 1cm and press. Stitch the hem up with a regular stitch or if you prefer you can hand stitch this to have a blind hem.

Now we are done and you should have a complete pair of pants! Below is a picture of the finished product front and back. We hope you have enjoyed this sew-along and hopefully we will see you for more in the future.

If you have any questions, comments or feedback leave a comment down below.
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